Nefertari (hazmat33) wrote in patterncutting,

Edwardian Straight Front Corset Pattern help

I have just started the Past Patterns Edwardian Straight Front Corset and have a few questions. So far everything is going well but because I am male, I have had to pin some parts of the pattern mock up, notably the areas which are fuller on women, the hips, the bust gore, and after laying the mock up flat the seam lines on some of the panels...notably the center front, underarm gore and side back have changed drastically...
..although these changes have taken in the gaps that were present in the orignal mock up ,and given a perfect fit, due to smaller hips and no breasts...will this affect how the whole concept of the corset? I.e will these changes stop the corset from being the intended Straight Front shape?

Does anybody have any opinions on shaping the seam lines or moving the reducements around somewhere? The pattern pieces are shown below with the pink lines being where I had taken in fabric by pinning.

Please note however that I am not making this corset with the intention of crossdressing so the areas that I have taken in really do need to be taken in. I'm very slim, my waist is 27 inches, my hips are 28inches and my bust or chest is 33inches...but despit drafting the corset to size 8 measurements there were still noticable gaps in the bust and hip area (front and sides respectively)
Also on a different topic, does anybody understand how the lines of the straight front affect the shape of the corset? There must be some reason why these panels are curved the way they are but I can't for the life of me figure it out.

Thank you in advance for your help

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